Planned Sacrifice for Chickens Put On Hold

I actually got good (okay, decent) surf today. It was so refreshing to not have to pull into overhead closeout barrels all day. I still had a few but they were usually in attempt to make it out the other end. This is not to say that the surf was great. There was basically a takeoff, drive down the line and hope that the wave doesn't mush out. It made it hard to to any sort of turns but I got a few in.

The locals here are an interesting group. They really like to have this tough guy look in the water. Not that I haven't seen something like this before, but it usually accompanies a local group trying to do one of two things. To slow down the population explosion at their homebreak (see Palos Verdes, Silverstrand, etc.). The other is to make sure that their already crowded break doesnt get too dangerous (usually at good wave spots, like Pipe, Sunset, Waimea, Off the Wall, shit you get the point, it's basically the North Shore of Oahu). This wave is neither overcrowded or good. It is a two star wave that gets its first star for being remotely surfable and the second for being consisten (even if it's consistently crap). I go out here and it looks like some of these guys are actually trying not to enjoy themselves. Not only that but there was this kid in the lineup yelling for all the gringos to ge out of the water (I was the only one and fuck him he's 15) the funny part about all this is he is this toe headed kid who thinks he's hot shit. I actually laughed out loud at this kid. Just complete silliness. There are 10 guys out in the water and this grom is out here trying to bully people around, of which I am the target but he won't look directly at me. I will mention that there is ten people but 4 peaks which made it even more ridiculous.

I remember when I was 15 and surfing, screw that example, have you seen a 15 year old kid in the water in Cali? They are usually sitting on the inside peak (at Lowers, Newport, Laguna) with a couple other friend, just having fun...and ripping. This kid was doing both. I'm bummed that a kid can't even enjoy his homebreak. I'm hoping that I see this change at other spots. This can't be the norm. I've never been anywhere in the world where the entire crowd was pretending to actually not like surfing...while surfing.