I Have Surfed A Lot

Going from not surfing to surfing six hours a day has worn me and my wound out. I slept all afternoon today after one of the best stints of surf I´ve ever had. It´s been incredibly good for the last four days, to the point where even though it was good this afternoon I stayed in and took a nap. I have gotten to that point where I just needed a break. The other reason I stayed in is because my scab got ripped off yesterday and I need at least an afternoon to get part of the scab back before I start surfing again.

The thing that is hard is that I keep wanting to hang back but the surf just has been incredible. It´s been overhead to double overhead the whole week and the sand bar has been unbelievable, I´ve been getting some ridiculous barrels the last few days and I keep thinking it can´t last for much longer and then the next day is just as good. I think it peaked yesterday afternoon. I got out before the post lunch crowd and it was me and a couple other gringos and it was just beautiful. We were all just out trading waves until the local chilean crew got out. It was a bit more aggressive after that, but I still got waves. It was the lesser surfers that got rubbed out.

It´s been really interesting traveling again, especially hanging out with americans in the water. I´ve really come to the conclusion that the american surfer is pretty average. There haven´t been any impressive surfers, and the only ones that have been good and from the states have been older guys. The two best surfers that I´ve been surfing with have been these two guys in their early-mid 40s. All the other american surfers are below average. It´s really weird, because I consider the level of surfing in California to be pretty good, but when I´m out here it seems like the majority of people aren´t that great. This is in stark contrast to the aussies who always seem to be good surfers. It´s funny, whenever I meet an american surfer out here I automatically think he won´t be as good as me and with the australians, I think they are going to be better. I always knew they were better surfers on average, but here it´s just been ridiculous.

I´m beginning to realize that my time here in Pichilemu is coming to an end. I have ten more days before I go to Buenos Aires for two weeks. And when I get back to Chile I´m only going to have 4 weeks, the majority of which will be spent outside of pichilemu, before I go off to see some friends in Australia and my family in Fiji. Once I get back to the Continent I´ll probably spend most my time up north. It´s just weird. I really feel like I´ve made a good group of friends down here and it´s going to be strange to leave behind, just because it´s been so unexpected.