I´m Back

I didn´t even look at the water before suiting up today. I knew I was ready to jump in the water. It didn´t matter at all to me what the surf was like, I was going in. It felt so good to be back in the ocean. The surf wasn´t great (for Pichilemu standards) and I found myself out there with only Chris (he and his wife, Val, run the institute), Keith (he takes classes at the institute) and a Chilean local. The banks are really good right now and even though the swell was inconsistent, it was easy to find yourself on a shoulder high little zipper.

I went kind of easy the first day, because I still wanted to make sure that I didn´t completely rip apart my cut and because my knee stiffened up from walking and sleeping in weird positions to protect my cut. It kinda tweaks a little when I bend it a lot, but I found that it loosened up as I surfed more. The really good news was that when I got in and took off my wetsuit, my cut hadn´t gotten worse (interestingly, it might have gotten better). I think this gives me a bit more free reign for my next surf because there will be so much less anxiety about surfing. It´s supposed to be a little bit bigger, but I guess I´ll see. It´s not supposed to be smaller, so with luck I´ll atleast get the same waves, maybe better. I think I just have to be patient out here and wait for the good ones, although that´s hard to do after spending three weeks doing nothing. I´m also a little slow because all I did while I was out was eat, so the gut is a bit bigger. Not quite flying to my feet. No matter, I´m just happy to be back.